Frank Schmidt

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Now Try This

user image 2009-02-08
By: Frank Schmidt
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Now Try This:Um ! Yum! Dark Milk Chocolate Port Ganache in a Dark Chocolate ShellI used Papua New Guinea origin chocolate for this molded treat. The Dark Chocolate shell was a 66 % cocoa with half vanilla bean per 5 lbs of liquor. After pulling off 2 lbs of dark I added enough sugar and milk to give me a 60% dark milk at 15 % milk.If youve not worked with home roasted chocolate, just know this: I used a good rich dark chocolate that was not too bitter for the shell. Not a real spicy/fruity chocolate like a Madagascar but a nice bold one. For the milk chocolate ganache it was pretty dark , with not a whole lot of milk. Ie, a dark milk chocolate that again was not too spicy. I think these go together well with port as it is not spicy like Sauvignon Blanc wine or a Vignoles wine jelly.For the ganache I used 2 oz of dark milk chocolate, 3 table spoons of vintage Port and, boiled evaporated milk cup . Not heavy cream. (That would be about 60 gm chocolate, 45ml of Port, and 75ml of evaporated milk. ) Why not cream? Some Ports are oak aged. Ie, they have an oaky/caramelized flavor and I think (just my opinion) that evaporated milk in the ganache blends better in flavor than a plain heavy cream.I brought the evap. milk to a light boil, poured in melted milk chocolate and added the port. Stirring constantly until all the chocolate was well blended. This is Fonseca Guimaraens 1998 vintage port. It was a gift to me and I dont know anything about it, could be expensive or could be cheap but I used it with chocolate and it turned out real nice. Im supposed to know about this stuff , the details of Port, as I grow wine grapes commercially, but I confess ignorance about Port. Makes a good ganache though.From the warm sauce pan I poured the liquid ganache into a cool glass bowl and covered with saran wrap and refrigerated overnight. I like to make my dark chocolate shells very, very thin as they are powerful single origin chocolate and I dont want the shells to overpower the center filling. So I made the shells pouring the melted dark into molds, scooped the milk chocolate ganache in and covered with a layer of dark chocolate which I tried to keep as thin as possible. The ganache was not broken, no liquid floated up so the pieces sealed well. These I chilled before taking out of the molds. They came out easily and I just had to bite into one right away.This is great tasting stuff !! It is not kiddie candy. Think about the fact that there adult flavors going on here. Its important that a person trying these chocolates doesnt expect sweet, sugary, birthday cake confections. No , no. This is an adult treat and is strong to some people if they dont expect a serious, flavorful molded chocolateYou get a mouthful of rich chocolate and a Vintage Porto beverage tooAnd I love it.Next Time : the same, with wine jelly to boot.

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Ilana
03/05/09 23:53:42 @ilana:
Thank you for the explanation! I would like to know if it tasted port-y or wine-y. Why did you choose evaporated milk over butter? And if I cannot get evaporated milk what would you suggest?Thank you!! Sounds lovely. Nice of you to share.