In honor of the Salon de Chocolat (which I didnt go to this year) this months walking tour takes you to some of Saint-Germains best chocolatiers. After all, you can toss an M&M in any direction in the sixth arrondisement and hit a world-class chocolatierespecially now that Patrick Roger has opened two new boutiques there.Start at one of them, 91 rue de Rennes, and see what magical window displays the creative chocolate genius has whipped up. After admiring the fantasies and inhaling the smells, select a few of his unusual bonbons to sampleperhaps the Jamaica, made with ground Arabica coffee beans; the Jacarepagua, a blend or tart lemon curd and refreshing mint, or the Phantasme, made with oatmeal.A fun and under-appreciated spot awaits just around the corner. The tiny and whimsical Jean-Charles Rochoux (16 rue d'Assas) is cluttered with chocolate figurines and sculptureseverything from fist-sized bunnies, squirrels and alligators to imposing nude busts. While Rochoux works in his basement kitchen, a lovely vendeuse, donning a lace glove, will pluck the pralines, nougats and truffles of your choice. Dont miss his signature Makers Mark truffles.A quick jaunt east, youll find Christian Constant (37 rue dAssas), a small but slick shop filled with decadent cakes and fragrant teas. In a case tucked along the right-hand wall, youll find delicious chocolates with spicy and floral notes such as saffron and ylang ylang.On your way back into the heart of the shopping district, skip the long line snaking out of Pierre Herm (72 rue Bonaparte). While his macarons are to die for, his chocolates, try as I might, arent as good as the others. Instead, make your way to another PierreBelgian chocolatier Pierre Marcolini (89 rue de Seine).Marcolinis boutique is as elegant and refined as a luxe jewelry store. Study the display cases to choose your bonbons of choice. My recommends: the Pav de Tours Fondant, an uber thin milk chocolate, filled with sugared almonds, hazelnuts and puff pastry cake, and the Coeur Framboise, dark chocolate ganache with raspberry puree, enrobed in white chocolate.Is there anything better than chocolate??

Founded in 1800, Debauve & Gallais is the oldest chocolatier in Paris. Sulpice Debauve, a pharmacist by training, opened the boutique after the Revolution and gradually built a reputation across the continent for exquisite chocolates. By 1818, he was appointed King Louis XVIIIs chocolate supplier, and then Charles Xs and then Louis Philippes. And now me.Its a beautiful old shop, which had me worried that the chocolates, too, were going to taste outdated. Silly girl. The half moon counter is a genius way of displaying all the bonbons, bouches and tablettesyoure practically surrounded by chocolate, and its just a matter of closing your eyes, pointing your finger and discovering which rich treat youre going home with. I kept my eyes open, indecisively (as always) going back and forth, back and forth. I couldnt decide if I wanted milk or dark chocolate, something filled with Cointreau or Calvados, covered in nuts or dusted with cocoa Sensing my panic, the patient dame behind the counter steered me towards the almond pralin, for which Ill forever be grateful. This pralin heart is one of the best sweets Ive had in a long time. Creamy, nutty and rich, not to mention generously proportioned, it gave me 1, 2, 3, 4. I dragged it out to 12 bites of blissful pleasure. It was the kind of treat that made me really savor each mouthfulsomething I couldnt imagine King Louis doing after all his years of exile.30 rue des Saints-Pers7eme

Ive always loved Patrick Roger s chocolates and his chocolate sculptures . But with the window display at his new Faubourg Saint-Honor boutique, my appreciation is going to new heights (hardy har har). To commemorate the 40th anniversary of Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin landing on the moon, hes whipped up this clever little chocolate sculpture. My American pride prompted me to celebrate with a few bonbonsamong them, lemon-basil, passionfruit, salted caramel and a couple good old pralins.199 Faubourg Saint-Honor8eme

How do I explain this one? A sixth sense for cacao? An exquisitely attuned nose that enables me to detect almond paste from over 400 miles away? Faith that any place in France is going to have to-die-for bonbons?When I booked my trip to Biarritz, I knew rugby, pelote and thalassotherapy spa treatments were big. But I had no idea that the region had a storied chocolate history. I swear .It was only on the TGV from Paris, furiously cramming to create my two-day itinerary, that my eyes came across this info and my heart skipped a beat: a chocolate museum? Vraiment ?? And when I was searching for my hotel and passed three chocolatiers within 100 yards of each another, well, it was only then that I believed my beach weekend was taking a delicious detour (bikini be damned!).The chocolate museum, Planete Muse du Chocolat , is (no pun intended) a sweet little place. It starts you off with a film about where and how chocolate is produced and then offers a handful of galleries devoted to chocolate molds and sculptures (created by Serge Couzigou), vintage advertising and packaging, and tools and machines from around the world and through the eras. At the end of the visit, youre rewarded for your attentiveness with a cup of rich hot cocoa. And, of course, youre spit out into the museum shop, where you can buy the house chocolate bars, bonbons, cocoa and cakes.I skipped the shop to do my chocolate shopping at the local chocolatiers.Henriet and Adam are located across the street from each other, reminding me of separated loversHenriet, traditional and decorated in pretty blue. And Maison Adam, dark, sleek and contemporary. Both have similar selectionschocolate bars, bonbons and bouches; marzipan molds and bricks, and pastries including the regional specialty, Gateau Basque. The Gateau Basque comes in several variations. One, a drier, circular shortbread cake is filled with cherry preserves. The other is also made with shortbread pastry, but its a flatter, denser square slice that sandwiches a lemony custard filling. The former is from Maison Adam, the former from Henriet.At both chocolatiers, the pates damandesone of my favorite thingscame in a spectacular array of flavors and varieties: raspberry, lemon, pistachio, pine nut, vanilla, chocolate Sometimes it was sliced and packaged like a chocolate bar, sometimes smaller bite-sized pieces were rolled in sugar and sold like a bag of suckers. It was delicious both ways. And the chocolate bonbons were equally adventurous and divine: milk chocolate with passionfruit ganache, dark chocolate with African tea, praline with lemon and coriander, salty, floral, spicy really, had I known I was training straight into chocolate paradise, I would have stayed for more than a weekend. There was no time for La Maison de Kanouga or Daranatz (with those cheerily wrapped chocolate bars). But, now that I know Biarritzs sweet secrets, Ill make sure the next visit is for an entire week.

Denise Acabo. The name doesnt mean much to 99.9% of the worlds population, but those who do know it are fanatical about the woman, her Parisian chocolate parlor and her devotion to Frances best chocolatiers and candy makers. With a daily uniform of long blonde braids, a tartan plaid skirt, and the sexy-schoolmarmish blend of bifocals and Chanel No 5 that only a middle-aged Frenchwoman can pull off, Acabo is a cult character here in Paris. But for more important reasons than her signature look, or even her choco-knowledge. Its her irresistible charm and infectious enthusiasm that reels them in. Everyone who walks through the doors of her SoPi (South of Pigalle) boutique is treated like the most important person in the world. She grabs you by the arm and gushes about her products: that theyre the best of the best and that shes the exclusive carrier in the city. Shell tell you how the cab drivers come in and clean her out of Le Roux caramels and that Japanese tourists fax her magazine articles in which shes appeared. She talks a mile a minute and is as much an entertainer and theatrice as a chocolate connoisseur. She could prattle on about pralines for hoursand she will if youre not careful. I looked at my watch when she paused for a breath and was shocked to see 30 minutes had passed. Its a shame I could understand only a fraction of what she was saying.But, importantly, what I did understand is that, outside of Lyon, she is the sole carrier of Bernachon chocolates . This famed chocolatier, Maurice, and his son, Jean-Jacques, operate a bean-to-bar factory that churns out dozens of flavors of delicate bonbons and hunky tablettes. So how do you choose between so many amazing flavorsespresso, orange, hazelnut, rum raisinwhen youre in that enviable position? For me it was simple: I let Denise do it. And thank goodness. When I unwrapped my Pte dAmande Pistache at home, I was suddenly inhaling vats of fresh chocolate in a factory. Delicious without even taking a bite. Between the richness of the 62% cacao and the sweet grittiness of Sicilian pistachio paste, I thought I had ascended to chocolate heaven. Its one of the most brilliant things Ive ever eaten.She was equally pointed and strong-willed with my bonbon selection. After careful consideration, I had selected six from the case, but she shot two of them down. She wanted to make sure I had the best of the best so I wound up with a selection from all over the country (Gevrey-Chambertin, Bourges, Lorraine) from masters including Henri Le Roux (salted caramel), Bernard Dufoux (balsamic vinegar truffle) and more from Bernachon (a praline noisette). There were so many exquisite sweets that I didnt get (this time), including the Breton caramels. But I was happy to see she also carries Jacques Genin s caramelsmore proof that Acabo only carries the best of the best.30 rue Pierre Fontaine9eme

Its been sixteen years since Ive seen my friend Bessies cousin, Bessie, but I had the chance to catch up with her this weekend at Jean-Paul Hevin's salon de th.We were modest and French enough with our mealsquiche for Bessie, salad for me, wine for us both. Less so with dessert. Its a chocolatier, after allmy favorite one at that. We had to have chocolate cake.For all its poshness, the salon has these weird oversized, laminated menus with pictures and descriptions of the cakes on itlike something youd see at a carnival. But they were admittedly helpful in narrowing down the selection. From the 30+ varieties of cakesmost of them chocolate-basedBes chose the Choco Passion, and I went classic with a Chocolat Framboise.My chocolate-raspberry cake was gorgeous. Layers of fluffy chocolate mousse and dense chocolate cake rested atop a cacao biscuit and beneath a layer of raspberry preserves. But for all its beauty, it lacked that famous je ne sais quoi. It had nothing on Bessies Choco Passion. The Choco Passion was rich and complex, nutty and fruity. A flakey praline base and dark chocolate ganache made for a thick, savory base that was offset with chocolate mousse whipped with tart passionfruit. It had so much depth and was so irresistible, I just wanted to keep sneaking bites of Bessies cake. But I figured that wasnt very French of me.231, rue Saint-Honor1eme

Last year I was excited for Peeps from Bethlehem . This year, Im enjoying the over-the-top molded chocolates in Paris.To be clear: Im not sampling every chocolate bunny or chickI have to show some restraint. Besides, seeing the elaborate window displays around town is almost as satisfying as tasting the edibles within.Michel Cluizel has chocolate eggs by the dozens. Not to be outdone, Lenotre created an Easter egg tree. Rocher and Dalloyau also put their eggs front and center, the former under beautiful cherry blossoms, the latter, coupled with teddy bears. Hmmmm I love Jean-Paul Hvins wacky giant hen. But, as always, the cake goes to Patrick Roger.I would call this more of a celebration of spring than Easter specifically. His sculpted display at the Avenue Victor Hugo boutique has a thatch-roofed shed and anthropomorphic vegetable garden. Smiling chocolate leeks or cabbage, anyone?

The first time I bit into a Bespoke truffle , I was instantly smitten. But the first time I met Rachel Zoe Insler, I was wowed. She's got the smarts and talent of a chocolatier trained in London, but the cool down-to-earth vibe of someone who's passionate about the city and can cop to loving Tasti-D-Lite. Growing up, my favorite sweet was: Honestly, I think I've always been a salty girl, but a quick call to my mother indicates that I had a serious thing for Baskin Robbins' bubble gum ice cream, which I received whenever she and I went to the laundromat together. My favorite sweet now is: A mini coffee eclair purchased from a Parisian patisserie. It's one of the few sweet things I actually crave. My personal Bespoke favorite: The Southampton tea truffle. I give the credit to the tea, which is so wonderfully aromatic. The good folks at Amai introduced me to it, and I've been using it ever since! What I love about the East Village is: How dynamic my neighborhood is...which is 100% due to the people who live here and have set up small businesses here. Since I both live and work here, there are full weeks where I don't leave the East Village but want for literally nothing in terms of fun, food, drinks, entertainment or people-watching. Plus, it's close to Brooklyn, where so many of my friends have migrated! Truffles or pralines: Truffles to make....pralines to eat! White, milk or dark: Dark Caramel, ganache or cream: Caramel....salted, if possible. Plus, sugar is so fascinating to the latent scientist in me. The perfect pairing: A night off with my fianc and a bottle of red wine. I'd love to create a flavor for: My mom. She doesn't really like chocolate, but I think if I make something with enough nuts and salt, I'll win her over! Kitchen essentials: Spatula, ladle, palette knife and scraper. Induction burner and chocolate melter are non-essential but SO helpful! Style essentials: I usually work in yoga pants and clogs, so I'm not all that stylish, but I have been loving my lavender bandanna from Montana Knox, my new neighbor on Extra Place. It's nice to cover my hair in style when I'm in the kitchen. Chocolatiers I admire: My mentor, Keith Hurdman, and Kee Ling Tong, who is my one-woman-chocolate-shop-pioneer inspiration. I'm most inspired when: I'm spending time with my amazing friends and family. How much is too much? When the mail carrier you've never met tells you look exhausted....it's too much. Favorite movie snack: Popcorn with copious amounts of salt and a "small" diet Coke that is about 36 oz. Guilty pleasure: Tasti-D-Lite and Diet Coke. I try to eat only real food....but Tasti-D and DC are so fake and yet SO GOOD. Other favorites: Music: Jack Johnson on a day off...nothing says "relaxation" like that; Gnocchi, eaten preferably in Italy; New York, Paris and Montalcino; the movies, Clueless & Clue.