Paul Johnson

Shifting in to a new chocolate paradigm.

user image 2012-06-19
By: Paul Johnson
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1879 marks a significant shift in the world of chocolate. If you define chocolate as a solid substance that is eaten (not drinking chocolate) that melts in your mouth with a creamy smooth deliciousness, then this is the birth year of chocolate. It was the conching of the chocolate to break down particle sizes and sugar crystals to a fine liquid as well as to reduce the sour flavors, that defined chocolate from that moment on.

Ever since that moment ,it was the chocolate maker who was in the driver's seat for the next 400 years or so. It was a relationship between chocolate makers and cacao plantation owners that made the best chocolates in the world.

Skip forward to the last 10 years or so and I see another shift about to happen. But first, I want to mention that with the development of the best wines in the world it was always the grape producers who made the best wine. Grape producers have had over 3000 years to perfect their art. It wasn't until recent history where wine producers would be only wine producers and not also grape producers. Wine has already gone through the shift that chocolate is currently taking.

During the last 400 years or so of chocolate as previously defined, plantation owners have had to accept the price paid for their cacao. With the advent of industrial chocolate, plantation owners (and their slaves or share-croppers) were generally trained to do as little to the cacao as possible. Why experiment with fermentation or drying when the price will be the same whether it is done properly or not? Leave the rest up to the chocolate factory to make the flavor consistent. Chocolate makers would direct the cacao workers to do what they wanted to the cacao. All the rest of the knowledge and value added was securely in the hands of the chocolate maker.

So Caribeans has discovered that we are one of very few small artisan chocolate makers who are also cacao producers. This affords us the freedom to experiment much earlier in the tree-to-bar process. Since we are adding value from the tree to the bar we also have financial freedom that modern day cacao producers haven't traditionally had. Combine that with the manufacture of very good small scale machines for several steps in the chocolate making process, and we have the chance to make a major shift in the whole economy of chocolate.

It is our belief that someday the best chocolates in the world will be made right in the same cacao forests that give us this miraculous substance we call chocolate. It will be the combined knowledge and freedom to experiment with small batches, which will produce the deeper understanding of what is really going on at the basic level. As cacao producing nations start to see the value added by becoming excellent chocolate makers as well as cacao producers, the local culture will begin to appreciate the art of chocolate. Chocolate is an art after all. It was never intended for massive production. It wasn't supposed to make you fat and give you acne.

This best thing about this shift, besides some of the most amazing chocolate ever created, is that the next shift brings the value and goodness of chocolate back to the current generation of indigenous cacao farmers who were the first to discover it's godly fruit thousands of years ago!

Support the new generation of cacao producers/chocolate makers by choosing to buy their chocolate. Travel to chocolate destinations like Puerto Viejo, Limon Costa Rica and see for yourself who will be the best chocolate makers in the world!

www.caribeanschocolate.com

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Ernesto Bugarin Pantua Jr.
07/12/12 03:18:47PM @ernesto-bugarin-pantua-jr:

Wow this is very good. Yes indeed the chocolate making is an art and the taste of chocolates really vary from place to place. We are glad that this paradigm shift is gaining ground in the world and we are contributing our share here in Tupi, South Cotabato, Philippines. Kudos to you Paul. I hope you give us some tips on the small cacao processing equipment appropriate to small processors like us (we have a 20 ha cacao plantation)