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Of all the things I expected to learn on my trip, learning where to get the best coffee and gelato in Rome never entered my plans. But there I was in Rome with an expert local guide (Vanessa Barg of Gnosis Chocolate) and that is exactly what I discovered. The New York Times recently also bestowed the best coffee on this place - saying that it might just be the most expensive in the world - when you add in the cost of the flight - and it would be worth it.Near the Pantheon on the Piazza Sant'Eustachio is il Caffe Sant'Eustachio. There you will find what many believe to be the best coffee (espresso) in all of Rome. What makes it so? First - you are in Rome. Second is the presentation. Third is the price (only 1 Euro - about $1.50). Finally there is the coffee itself - deep, rich, and fragrant without being bitter with a crema that has to be experienced to be believed. Light and airy and a lot of it. They "regular" way of serving is with sugar and that is how I recommend you take yours first. Later you may try without sugar, but first try it the way they recommend you drink it.The other important thing to know about ordering coffee at Sant'Eustachio (and, in fact, ordering just about any food or beverage in any location other than a sit-down restaurant) is that you queue up to pay first, and then present your receipt at the counter where they will make up your order.

The entrance signs for Sant'Eustachio lighted at night

The presentation of the coffee at Sant'Eustachio

Now because I was with a local guide whose family frequented the place regularly, I was invited to have one of those wonderful experiences that make any trip extra special. We were invited into the back to see the roaster - a wood-fired roaster. No roasting was going on that day but we got to see the roaster and some of the beans up close.

Two shots of the wood-fired roaster at Sant'Eustachio  View Google Map for location of Sant'Eustachio

This is the obligatory tourist shot of me in front of the Pantheon

It turns out that the best gelato in Rome is also not far from the Pantheon. Now, while I can tell you how to get from the Pantheon to il caffe Sant Eustachio, I can't tell you how to get to Giolitti. It is very close to the Pantheon and if we were to meet out front I would be able to guide you there. (Anyone who is interested in having me personally escort them in Rome for this culinary adventure - contact me privately.)What makes Giolitti so special? Everything, actually. Not just the gelatao - which is phenomenal. The shop itself is inviting and warm, the selection of flavors tremendous, the price is affordable, and did I mention the creme chantilly? Wow. You can select from several sizes of cones and cups and to eat in or take out. All but the smallest cone allows you to select two or more different flavors. This is the hardest part of going to Giolitti - selecting flavors. The best approach seems to be themed - there are several different nut flavors (including gianduja/hazelnut, noccio/walnut), several different chocolates, at least two different coffees, and dozens of fruits. I chose gianduja, dark chocolate fondente, and espresso. This was topped with a dense yet ethereally light cloud of whipped cream unlike any other I have ever tasted. The only disappointment was the cone itself. I had the medium size (three flavors) and the cone was pedestrian and covered in a chocolate-like substance that was almost certainly a compound coating. Don't eat the medium cone dipped in "chocolate." The small cone was very good, however.

The gelato selection at Giolitti - do not order the chocolate-covered cones: it's compound.

From a dining perspective I can also recommend the restaurant Giogetto in the old Jewish quarter of Rome, just next to the Tiber river. One of the specialties of Giogetto is artichokes, and our dinner included stuffed squash blossoms (with fresh mozzarella and anchovy), a whole artichoke deep fried, and pasta with - you guessed it, artichokes in an olive oil and garlic sauce. A little salad and a bottle of the house red. Heaven.

My dinner setting at Giogetto - artichoke, squash blossom, plate, and wine glass

Going on a family trip to europe in January and february 2010 from Australia any must do's and see's of the chocolate world , going on a behind the scenes look of the Callebaut Factory. Going to the UK, Belguim, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, France and Hong Kong on the way home. Any information would be greatWallace

The biggest celebration of Dia de Los Meurtos or Day of the Dead in America is at Hollywood Forever cemetery in Los Angeles. Part art walk, part street festival, all souls are welcome. The tradition is rooted in the ancient civilzations of Mesoamerica (Maya, Aztec and more) and are the same ones that developed chocolate from their native cacao trees. People decorate alters with memorabilia, marigolds, candles, bread and sugar skulls to attract the souls of their beloved departed. In Mexico, where the tradition continues, a cup of hot chocolate entices with its fragrance, and then promises to fuel the travelling spirit as it continues its journey through the afterlife. Mexico has been serving a Halloween special of death and chocolate for a long time. Spooky!

The first time I traveled to Europe for an extended period of time (six weeks in 1986 - way before my interest in chocolate) I managed to lose quite a bit of weight.One of the reasons why was that I spent the first two weeks in Germany (a culture not known for gourmet cuisine) and another was that I was working a nine-day trade fair (Photokina) and so was on my feet from 9am to 8pm every day with few options for eating. For the remaining four weeks I was eating at most two meals a day (skipping lunch) and walking at least five miles a day. So, even though I was in places like Venice, Florence, Nice, Barcelona, and Paris, I was really only eating a light breakfast, no lunch (with the aid of a few light snacks when I got peckish), and only indulging in dinner and trying to be reasonable even then.During my most recent European Chocolate Road Trip I had a similar experience, though I did some backsliding the second week because I was treated to some phenomenal dinners (and other temptations) and despite the fact that I was consuming quite a bit of chocolate every day.Here are the secrets to my New New European Chocolate Weight Loss Diet:1) You have to be in Europe - away from your normal routine. This won't work in Cleveland. Nothing against Cleveland, just see #2.2) You have to be at least five time zones from your home time. Your body clock needs to be out of sync.3) You have to get up early and stay out late and be really busy in between (in other words, burn the candle at both ends and in the middle).4) Have nothing but coffee (espresso, not American) in the morning until at least 10 am. Three or four cups of good, strong coffee. No sugar or milk. You want to get your heart pumping in high gear. It's okay to have one small slice of pastry as long as it's really, really special - like the Pralus' Praluline - but only one small slice and not before 10am.5) Eat small amounts of chocolate at regular intervals throughout the day. You may have as much coffee as you like (two more espressos is about right), and you should drink at least a liter of water as well.6) Do not eat dinner before 8pm.7) When you do finally have dinner, make sure you're with lots of friends and that you spend at least three hours at the table. The point is to enjoy the meal and the experience, not just consume food. You may have wine with dinner (not too much as you have to be up early in the morning) and you should make sure to have at least one more glass of water. When you choose your meal, make sure to have a salad and try to avoid dishes with heavy cream sauces. Coffee is always okay (you do have to stay awake until you reach your hotel) - but skip the dessert as nothing will compare with the chocolate you've been eating all day. Do not go to bed before midnight and do not watch CNN or BBC News in your room. Some popular Hollywood film dubbed into a foreign language without subtitles is perfect.8) Make sure to walk at least three miles every day.By following this plan you can reasonably expect to shed 5 pounds the first week.The only things that can set you back is lunch, dinner, and ignoring the morning coffee rule, so try to stay away from any or all of the following:a) Having dinner at Michelin 3-star restaurants (my downfall was Le Troigros in Roanne)b) Ordering a tasting menu for dinner where you ask the chef to "make what he feels like" (at Htel - Le chteau de Champlong in Villerest)c) Having extended lunches with the managing director (Francois Pralus) of the company you're visiting, andd) Pulling fresh vanilla macarons and florentins off a speed rack and running them through the warm milk-chocolate waterfall of the tempering machine where the addicting barre infernale is being made.Too much of these kinds of experiences will set your European weight loss goals off-track. But then you didn't really travel to Europe to lose weight? Did you?

This is a tale of two attempts to see what Eurochocolate has to offer. On the first Sunday we arrived early at the park and ride area to find over 100 tourist coaches and a hlaf-mile long/4 people wide queue for tickets to get the bus to the town centre venue. There was, of course, a similar queue for the actual coaches.We bailed on this and found the railway station - the plan being to say "hi Clay, we're out of here!" but the bus queues didn't exist so we parked and made it to the centre. We shouldn't have bothered. We had an enjoyable few hours talking to Clay, Vanessa and her Mum and found a good place for lunch but the crowds were enprmous. Chocolate was only occasionally glimpsed - as 1m cubes being sculpted, being spooned into a passing face from a warm plastic cup, through a crowd at a tasting session. Good evidence of chocolate for dogs, a few inflatable purple cows and many many people.The second attempt was made on Thursday morning. I was keen to find the "professional" exhibits and get more of a feel for the festival. It was still busy but the stalls were actually visible. The stalls were usually company-specific and most offered moulded confections of many kinds, a suprising range of bars and a broad selection of novelty shapes: screwdrivers and hammers, cell phones and clocks, helmets and horseshoes.Way more bars than I expected and I have a good selection of single-origin bars from a variety of producers (Zaabar, Piluc, de Bondt, Santander, Vanini) to compare. Research is tough, no? There were some intersting takes on flavourings (banana, rose, coariander - not together, thankfully) and packaging (simple clear wrappers, embossed white paper boxes, sealed foil pouches). I didn't actually eat any chocolate there but will make up for it this week.I found the "trade" area and made contact with an Ecuadorian producer. The Indonesian and Brazilian zones were un-manned as I passed but all the stalls were wet up to be informative to the general passer-by and there was an empasis on educating the young.Overall? Quite fun, but not at all what I was expecting. It isn't a trade event it's fun for the family. Did I enjoy it? Of course I did! I bought chocolate and was in Italy - takes some beating.Duffy

where to buy them & what's best to use

Lovely dark chocs!

Just some pics of the packaging and goodies we bought.

They had their machinery behind a glass partition with an micromini amphitheater seating so you could watch them smooshing beans.

And the box - loved the design!

And the cookies (which were gone in seconds)

Oh, but how we the chocolates you ask? Friggin' divine. Strong, distinct dark chocolate taste perfectly balanced with a variety flavoring and without any acidity or cloying sweetness. One of the best balancing acts I've had in a long time and I'm a woman who loves Marcolini's acidic edges. I like a strong flavor that can be dialed up or down to complement a diversity of flavors -- everything from sweet balsamic vinegar to the earthy almond cluster. Both my husband and myself loved most of the chocs we bought, with the exception of the Douglas Fir praline which I liked, but my husband found tedious. But c'mon, who doesn't want to eat a tree flavored chocolate? I will definitely buy them again, but it may have to be by mail order since I'm switching coasts. Oh and here's their shiny mod website: http://www.somachocolate.com/ , if you're in Toronto stop by.

My husband and I spent an afternoon in Toronto (we live in Buffalo) and we stopped by Soma Chocolates while we were there. I'd been dying to try them and as we only had time for one chocolatier (of the three possible) Soma was the winner. Let's start with some pictures of the store:

I'll post pics of the actual chocolates later. We just got back from Italy yesterday so I also have pics from Eurochocolate and the chocolatier shops of Luca Mannori, Paul de Bondt, and Robero Catinari.

Hey, its today! My new book, CHOCOLATE BLISS: Sensuous Recipes, Spa Treatments and Other Divine Indulgences hits bookstores today (Barnes & Noble, Borders, your local independent). Its a celebration of how chocolate touches the culinary heart of the world. Lots of info on tasting, health benefits, sustainable farming, gifting, plus recipes for brownies, cookies, marbled pound cake, cocoa chili, fondue; AND shopping tips on how to find great chocolatethe stuff we like! Of course THE CHOCOLATE LIFE is listed as a must-see site. Check it out on Amazon - if you like it, write a rave review, okay?

In honor of the Salon de Chocolat (which I didnt go to this year) this months walking tour takes you to some of Saint-Germains best chocolatiers. After all, you can toss an M&M in any direction in the sixth arrondisement and hit a world-class chocolatierespecially now that Patrick Roger has opened two new boutiques there.Start at one of them, 91 rue de Rennes, and see what magical window displays the creative chocolate genius has whipped up. After admiring the fantasies and inhaling the smells, select a few of his unusual bonbons to sampleperhaps the Jamaica, made with ground Arabica coffee beans; the Jacarepagua, a blend or tart lemon curd and refreshing mint, or the Phantasme, made with oatmeal.A fun and under-appreciated spot awaits just around the corner. The tiny and whimsical Jean-Charles Rochoux (16 rue d'Assas) is cluttered with chocolate figurines and sculptureseverything from fist-sized bunnies, squirrels and alligators to imposing nude busts. While Rochoux works in his basement kitchen, a lovely vendeuse, donning a lace glove, will pluck the pralines, nougats and truffles of your choice. Dont miss his signature Makers Mark truffles.A quick jaunt east, youll find Christian Constant (37 rue dAssas), a small but slick shop filled with decadent cakes and fragrant teas. In a case tucked along the right-hand wall, youll find delicious chocolates with spicy and floral notes such as saffron and ylang ylang.On your way back into the heart of the shopping district, skip the long line snaking out of Pierre Herm (72 rue Bonaparte). While his macarons are to die for, his chocolates, try as I might, arent as good as the others. Instead, make your way to another PierreBelgian chocolatier Pierre Marcolini (89 rue de Seine).Marcolinis boutique is as elegant and refined as a luxe jewelry store. Study the display cases to choose your bonbons of choice. My recommends: the Pav de Tours Fondant, an uber thin milk chocolate, filled with sugared almonds, hazelnuts and puff pastry cake, and the Coeur Framboise, dark chocolate ganache with raspberry puree, enrobed in white chocolate.Is there anything better than chocolate??