Forum Activity for @Brian S. Ruggles

Information on Madagascar

Posted in: News & New Product Press

I am still a Chocolate Life greenhorn, but I would love some input from the contributors on here.

I recently formed a Chocolate Society in Utah with some fellow chocophiles, and we meet monthly to focus on various aspects of the wonderful brown stuff. We have looked at Venezuelan chocolates, Amedei's blends, etc. Our next meeting - just this Monday evening - will spotlight Madagascar chocolates.

I love the fruitiness of Madagascar's beans. I love the difference between Amano's Madagascar and Pralus's. I am excited to try and overload on one of the most potent beans out there. I think this will be an interesting look to see the stylistic differences between the great producers out there in addition to an exciting way to discover the unique characteristics of the Madagascar beans that exist independent of the producers' methodology. We will be sampling chocolate from Amano, Patric, Valrhona, Pralus, Amedei, Domori, and some others I can't remember now.

I am hoping to get information about Madagascar's beans in relation to these brands' bars. I understand that Amano, Amedei, Domori, and Patric get their beans from the Akesson family plantation in the Sambirano Valley in the northern part of the island, and that Pralus and Valrhona use beans blended from Akesson and some other locale(s).

Are the beans Trinitario or Criollo? It seems there is some debate there, and I tend to think the beans fall somewhere on the Criollo side of in-between - whatever that would even mean. Does anyone know where the distinctive brightness comes from, or the fruit-skin-style bitterness? Is that the varietal or the climate or soil or some other factor coming through?

If you have any info to offer, I would greatly appreciate it. And keep up the great work.

Brian

updated by @Brian S. Ruggles: 05/05/15 02:27:42

Pralus Chuao - a stylistic discussion

Posted in: Tasting Notes

When I am in a Pralus mood (read: appreciating VERY dark roast), Chuao is the ultimate. It is interesting to me how some of the flavors I associate most with Amedei's bar are nowhere to be found in Pralus's.I get the dried red fruit more than anything. I especially get grapes and raisins and that fruit-skin bitterness. It is fun getting something without the floral vanilla that is so characteristic in Amedei's bars. Mark me down as a believer for this one.And are you posting from Europe? Bring me back something nice!

New test improves control of chocolate origins

Posted in: News & New Product Press

This is easily the nerdiest view of chocolate I have personally come across, and the nerd in me (easily 3/4 or better) is quite interested.This makes me wonder - do these compounds define much of the flavor that we would normally associate from the terroir? Also, do you think this could lead to synthesizing realistic fine chocolate?Further, has there been any research to discover the chemical nature of the production process as it relates to flavor and aroma? For example, ferment and roast both lend much to the final flavor profiles of Domori and Pralus chocolates, respectively. I wonder whether there has been any research into what chemicals come from these processes that yield such distinct products.Over all, this was very interesting.

Cocoa butter and cocoa solids

Posted in: Tasting Notes

The thought of single tree bars is mildly mind-numbing. How does one come across something so esoteric? Is this the ultimate frontier? Do the trees start getting names?In all seriousness, how different are the trees? I wonder whether they are different like children can be different. The appearances are rather distinct - are the flavors? This is very exciting...

Cocoa butter and cocoa solids

Posted in: Tasting Notes

Any fine bar out there now is going to have a fair bit of fat in it, regardless of whether they add separate cocoa butter. Often, it seems to me, extra cocoa butter seems to be for the smoothing of the texture (at best) or the dilution of unpleasant flavors (at the more "worst" end of the spectrum).Fortunately, chocolate can have a fantastic texture without overloading the fat content with cocoa butter or vegetable oils or other "texture-enhancers." Particle size achieved through the grinding and refining has much to do with the finished texture, and Domori has worked out how to have their chocolates feel like pure silk without refining them to death. Cluizel tends to be more on the VERY refined side, and I think some of the innate flavors suffer accordingly.

Cocoa butter and cocoa solids

Posted in: Tasting Notes

Whatever is right or wrong with Lindt - their "Excellence" bars do have real vanilla - and a fair bit of it.

Cocoa butter and cocoa solids

Posted in: Tasting Notes

If the density of the non-cocoa-butter solids and and cocoa butter is the same, that would mean there is about 10% (of the total weight of the bar) added cocoa butter (based on the normal just-over-50%-cocoa-butter percentage of the average bean). Since the densities of the cocoa butter and the remainder of cocoa solids are bound to be different, it seems worthwhile to compare that to a bar with no added cocoa butter like one from Domori or Patric.*pause to run to the kitchen**further pause to put the girls down*As it turns out, those bars don't have much by way of Nutrition Facts - guess where my priorities haven't been. Anyone know of a bar of chocolate with no added cocoa butter that has published Nutrition Facts? Also, with the number involved, I am guessing we won't get very accurate percentages.