Reclassification of cacao varieties?
updated by @brady: 04/16/15 16:37:51
The view that Forastero/Criollo/Trinitario/Nacional is a thumbnail sketch seems to be gaining prevalence in chocolate literature (though not, admittedly, on chocolate wrappers). That's a step in the right direction.
@clay
03/14/08 07:52:23
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@clay
03/17/08 22:04:17
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@clay
11/23/08 12:05:41
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@koa-kahili
11/30/08 10:19:23
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@clay
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@clay
12/13/10 18:58:35
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Some long-time members of TheChocolateLife may realize that Samantha Madell recently left the community and chose to delete all of her contributions when she left.
Among those contributions was the link to a research paper by Juan Carlos Motamayor, et al , (Geographic and Genetic Population Differentiation of the Amazon Chocolate Tree) referring to a new classification scheme of 10 distinct varieties. Published in 2008, this list has already been updated to include at least three more genetically distinct varieties of cacao, up from the more conventionally understood 3+1 (criollo, forastero, trinitario, and nacional).
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clay - http://www.thechocolatelife.com/clay/
I think we may see another classification scheme in an upcoming paper by a Penn State research group . My understanding is that it will be published by the end of the year. Clay, do you know what to expect from this?
whatever the reasons are, i am very saddened by this development. I have alwaysfoundher posts and contributionswell documented, insightful, enlightening and I have often found myselfcoming back to themfor reference. In my still short journey from bean to bar she has been a reliable source of information and advice. Clay,this is a field where information has long beenin the hands of few big players, and the repository of knowledgeyou have made possible with Chocolatelife is extremely valuable for as long as it counts with contributions of well informed people like Samantha.
@clay
12/14/10 11:31:47
1,680 posts
Jim:
Samantha was one of the strongest contributors, technically, to TheChocolateLife, and her contributions will definitely be missed. It was a shock to me that she left in such a peremptory fashion. If you are interested, it's possible to retrieve much (but not all) of what Samantha contributed through the magic of Google's cache.
Search on Google for "samantha madell thechocolatelife" then click on the 'cached' pages link. In most browsers you can save the page as an HTML file. However, you only get this one page, the page navigation links at the bottom don't point to cached pages, but to the pages on TheChocolateLife that no longer exist.
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@clay
12/14/10 11:37:16
1,680 posts
Brady: I read of the research, which focuses on Central American "criollos." If you take a look at Motamayor's map, the geographic distribution of what that research labels criollo is vast.
We may see some distinction within the criollo group but I don't know that the new Penn State research is broad enough to add new varieties or if it can only add varieties within the criollo group.
I guess we'll have to wait to find out. Whatever is technically correct, the larger issue is how to communicate this to consumers. It's clear that the trinity+1 view is wrong but the industry (me included) has done such a good job in the last 20 years promoting criollo, forastero, trinitario (+ nacional) that it's hard to see what use and/or outcomes might be. I personally have abandoned the trinity+1 naming in all my new work and writing, just as I advocate for the use of "origin" over "single-origin."
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updated by @clay: 09/14/15 17:15:53
@sunita-de-tourreil
12/14/10 16:57:01
19 posts
I too am very saddened to lose Samantha Madell as part of this community. Her posts were to me, among the most valuable posts on TCL. I now regret that I had not spent more time reading everything she had written, but I am glad there is a way to retrieve some information via Google's cache.Thank you Clay.
@clay
12/26/10 14:25:48
1,680 posts
Brady:
Here's one summary of the research you mention, published, today. Here's the official release from Penn State.
From the Penn State article:
"The Theobroma cacao genome sequences are deposited in the EMB:/Genbank/DDBJ databases under accession numbers CACC01000001-CACC01025912. A genome browser and further information on the project are available from http://cocoagendb.cirad.fr/gbrowse and http://cocoagendb.cirad.fr ."
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@clay
12/27/10 09:06:18
1,680 posts
Brady:
The old one (3+1) is clearly broken and Motomayor et al is not complete, and the recent announcement of pure Nacional found in Peru is confusing.
Any new classification scheme is probably going to be based on new genetic research but anything new is going to have to go up against all of the marketing that has been done around 3+1 even though it's woefully inadequate.
Any ideas on what you'd like to see that might be useful without being too complicated?
Personally, I think any new system should start with a geographic overlay - named denominations that are protected as in the AOC in France and the DOP in the EU.
:: Clay
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@clay
12/27/10 09:48:27
1,680 posts
Brady:
:: Clay
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@clay
12/27/10 12:37:33
1,680 posts
And there is this other release on "pure nacional" being found in Peru. Apparently, they are genetically more or less identical to the Nacional found in Ecuador and have the same aroma, but have a higher proportion of white beans than the Nacional found in Ecuador.
The Peruvian Nacional is also different in that it grows between 3500-4100 ft, the highest recorded for any cacao.
If you take a look at Motamayor's map you'll see that the range for Criollo is quite large - which makes sense for cultivated varieties. However, there is some distance (not only as the crow flies but also in elevation) between the Cacao Nacional in Ecuador and the Cacao Nacional in Peru - which leads to the questions of how the distribution occurred, which is the "original home" (if either was, there may be a different common ancestor), and rethinking the range of habitats suitable for growing cacao.
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@seneca-klassen
12/27/10 23:51:35
17 posts
@clay
12/28/10 08:25:51
1,680 posts
Seneca:
How about starting on Hawaii? It's a small group and there is the resource of Skip Bittenbender's group and access into the Ag department in the Hawaiian state government.
Kona is a good example in coffee ....
:: Clay
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@seneca-klassen
12/28/10 10:51:08
17 posts
@clay
12/29/10 09:05:49
1,680 posts
Seneca:
When you're ready, let's set up a discussion forum in the Hawaii Cacao group and invite the members there to contribute.
Have fun in the weeds!
:: Clay
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clay - http://www.thechocolatelife.com/clay/
@clay
12/31/10 11:53:45
1,680 posts
Brady:
One of the things that people don't always consider to be part of "terroir" is post-harvest processing and manufacturing techniques. Champagne is not just a defined region, it's a method of production AND the use of particular grape varietals.
A controlled denomination of origin system would include all of these aspects (e.g., Maraon pure Nacional as the type, a specific geographic descriptor, and then a description of the general protocols for fermentation [e.g/. 2/2/2] and drying.
I think it's pretty easy to appreciate chocolate without really knowing where the cocoa beans come from. However, more knowledge leads to a different depth of appreciation. Recently, I came across a definition of connoisseur as someone who can say, "I can appreciate that - even though I don't like it."
Getting to specific genetics will be interesting and depend upon confounding political factors over which there is no control.
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